Archives: Month March, 2008

Maciej Berbeka the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Maciej Berbeka
the Tatra Mountain guide IVBV/UIAGM, the member of Mountain Rescue Service TOPR, the climber, participant and expeditions leader to Himalaya and Karakorum. Graduated Fine Art Academy in Cracow.
Maciek Berbeka has so far conquered 5 of 14 – 8000m. peaks:
1981 – Annapurna – south face of Annapurna, new route
1984 – Manaslu – first ascent in winter
1985 – Cho – Oyu – first ascent in winter
1988 – Broad Peak – first ascent in winter
1993 – Mt.Everest

He has been climbing since 1969, participating in many expeditions such as:
Kavkaz 1976 – 77, Alps 1978, Himalaya 1979, Pamir 1980, Himalaya 1981(South Face of Annapurna),Rocky Mountains in Canada 1982, Himalaya 1983 -1984 (first ascent in winter), 1984 – 1855 (first ascent in winter Cho -Oyu), 1986 (Dhaulagiri I – new route unsuccesful attempt) 1987- 1988 (K2 unsuccesful attempt) Broad Peak – first ascent in winter, 1993 Mount Everest. He was the expedition leader for Manaslu and Nanga Parbat.

We provide a wide range of mountaineering experiences climbing – from the classic climbs in Tatra Mountains and Alps – to trekking in the highest mountains of the world.

We guarantee;
Safety in the mountains
Highly experienced guides IVBV/UIAGM
Mountaineer instructors
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We offer full service including:

Classic climbs in Tatra Mountains

  • classic climbs in Tatra Mountains: Gerlach (the highest peak of Tatra Mountains), Mnich, Wysoka, Lodowy ect.
  • winter peak ascents, ski tours,
  • climbing courses

Sightseeing tours in Zakopane and surroundings

  • Zakopane
  • folk nights
  • Dunajec River Rafting
  • Slovakia caves
  • Morskie Oko Lake
  • mountain flights
  • walking in Valleys

The classic Trekking to the World`s Highest Mountains`

  • Aconcagua – expedition – January
  • Trekking – Annapurnę – (+ Tybet) – April
  • Alpy – June, July , August, September, October – climbing such peaks as : Grossglockner 3789, Breithorn 4164 m., Mount Blanc 4807 m.
  • Kilimandżaro – expedition – July
  • Trekking at foot of Cho Oyu via Cho La Pas – Mt. Everest B.C. – Lothse (+ optional -climbing Island Peak) October/November

Official site : – http://www.mrtravel.pl/

berbeka Maciej Berbeka the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/ MACIEJ BERBEKA

przewodnik tatrzański i międzynarodowy IVBV/UIAGM, ratownik TOPR, taternik, himalaista, uczestnik i kierownik wypraw w Himalaje i Karakorum. Studia ukończył na krakowskiej Akademii Sztuk Pięknych.

ZDOBYTE OŚMIOTYSIĘCZNIKI:
Mount Everest

Annapurna – wejscie południową scianą Annapurny – nowa droga
Broad Peak – pierwsze zimowe wejście
Cho Oyu – pierwsze zimowe wejście
Manaslu – pierwsze zimowe wejście

Taternictwo uprawia od 1969 roku. Uczestniczył w wielu wyprawach alpinistycznych m.in.: Kaukaz 1976 – 77, Alpy 1978, Himalaje 1979, Pamir 1980, Himalaje 1981 (wejście południową ścianą Annapurny – nowa droga), kanadyjskie Góry Skaliste 1982, Himalaje 1983 – 84 (pierwsze zimowe wejście na Manaslu), 1984 – 85 (pierwsze zimowe wejście na Cho Oyu) 1986 (próba wejścia nową drogą na Dhaulagiri I),1987 – 88 (próba zimowego wejścia na K2 oraz pierwsze wejście zimowe na Broad Peak), 1993 (wejście na Mount Everest). Był kierownikiem wyprawy na Manaslu i Nanga Parbat. Wybitne osiągnięcia alpinistyczne, wieloletnie doświadczenie, świetna znajomość gór i wyjątkowa siła woli oraz znakomite i sprawdzone zdolności organizacyjne – stawiają Macieja Berbekę w światowej czołówce himalaistów.

Maciej Berbeka znany jest wśród miłośników ekstremalnych wypraw górskich jako odpowiedzialny, pomocny przyjaciel i przewodnik na najwyższe szczyty świata.

strona himalaisty : – http://www.mrtravel.pl/

Closing Everes part 3 – Everest north side climber – how well do you know China?

Closing Everest – Everest north side climber – how well do you know China?

I Recommend …

ExplorersWeb Week in Review – http://www.mounteverest.net/

 Closing Everes part 3   Everest north side climber   how well do you know China?Wonder economy? Booming Tibet? Chinese billionaires?

46.7% of China’s population survives on less than $2/day.

This spring we will see happy Tibetans wave the Chinese flag from the summit of Everest, all broadcasted to world media from Everest North Side BC. Xinhua will provide western news aggregators with cute stories and some climbers will nod in approval, but before you do – check the following facts.

No Democracy in China

Many western climbers seem unaware that China is not a free country.

In 1949 the Communist Party of China (CPC) took control over mainland China and since then there has been only one power, the CPC, in control. Where America worries about a few votes lost in Florida for a party candidate; there are no direct elections in China, making it effectively a single-party state.

 Closing Everes part 3   Everest north side climber   how well do you know China?Perhaps they all agree you say?

70 million, or only 5% of China’s population are members in the communist party. 95% of the Chinese population has no influence on the political process at all.

The ghosts of Shigatse

Climbers have stated that Tibetans are faring well under Chinese rule.

Since 2001, China is led by a certain Hu Jintao. President Hu Jintao has worked the party route most of his life and as a Party Chief of Tibet Autonomous Region; he has been part of shaping present day Tibet.

Known as a hardliner in Tibet, Hu was responsible for the 1989 crackdown at Jokhang in Lhasa and also suspected to be involved in the unexpected death that same year of Tibet’s 2nd highest religious leader, Panchen Lama.

In the 1989 crackdown, demonstrators waving the Tibetan flag (now outlawed) and shouting for independence were massacred, several thousand were injured and three thousand were imprisoned.

Only 51 years old, Panchen Lama died in Shigatse, a town well known by Everest climbers, after giving a speech critical of the Chinese occupation.

Shigatse is also the place where at least 25 Tibetan refugees, including 10 children between 8 and 15 years old, were put i jail after the shootings at Nangpa-La in 2006. Many of the prisoners were tortured with electric shock prods. The Nangpa La incident was not a single event; similar occurred in 2005 and 2007.

Following the untimely death of Panchen Lama, Dalai Lama selected his incarnation, Gedhun Choekyi Nyima.

Incarnation was outlawed, and at the age of six, in 1995 Nyima was arrested by the Chinese becoming the world’s youngest political prisoner. At present, the 19 years old Nyima’s location is unknown.

 Closing Everes part 3   Everest north side climber   how well do you know China?Fighting for democracy

Some climbers seem to believe that freedom is unimportant to the Chinese people.

Brave and unfortunate locals have actively fought for democracy in China. Student Wang Dan, one of the leaders of the Tiananmen Square protests in 1989 and 10 of his friends were jailed by the Chinese government and fled China after their release years later.

Wang’s danger lay not in his bad-ass appearance (he is soft-spoken and wears large glasses) but in the words he said:

“We make no attempt to conceal the aim of the current student movement, which is to exert pressure on the government to promote the progress of democracy. People’s yearning for democracy, science, human rights, freedom, reason, and equality, which lack a fundamental basis in China, have once again been aroused.” —May 1989

Freedom of the Press – printed media

Mainstream media frequently reprint Chinese press releases unchecked. Local media is dominated by the government’s communist People’s Daily and Xinhua; never or seldom criticizing the government of China.

Foreign media based in China are not allowed to interview Chinese citizens without prior consent of the party. An exception to the rule is applied for the Chinese Summer Olympics, from January 2007 until October 2008.

Freedom of the Press – internet

The “Golden Shield Project” or “the Great Firewall of China” is the name of China’s network of firewalls and proxy servers at the Internet gateways aimed to prevent certain internet traffic. The ultimate purpose is to keep the Chinese people in the dark about what happens in the world and to build a gigantic database over people and websites to be blocked by the government.

Examples of censored websites are Wikipedia, YouTube, Voice of America, BBC News and of course websites supporting democracy in China, Tibet freedom etc.

Search engines such as Google have agreed to help censor their content. Google China now screens websites blacklisted by China and blocks them.

China’s economy

Mainstream media often report on China’s “wonder economy.”

In 1978, the Chinese communist party initiated market-based financial reforms, making the country an economical super power. The last 30 years have however been fruitful not only for China, but most of Asia.

Considering the huge foreign investments (stretching for the 1.3 billion people market); the Chinese success is not striking when comparing to Taiwan, South Korea, Thailand and other emerging economies in Asia.

China is still only number 86 in the world; behind countries such as Taiwan, South-Korea, Thailand, Indonesia and Iran – ahead of India, Nepal, Pakistan and Bangladesh.

Many countries in Asia have had great growth rate, often double digits, in the post war period. China reached its growth late in comparison and is actually lagging due to its communism.

The communist ideals

We are often told about the 345 000 new millionaires in China (2007 APF) and 5000 extremely rich people (more than $30 million) and more than 100 billionaires. Compare though to India, far behind China in foreign investments, but already with 100 000 millionaires and 27 billionaires in the country.

In spite of communist ideals, the difference between rich and poor has increased in China. Half the population is living on less than $2/day – that’s 650 million people or the equivalent of US and Europe combined. The situation is even worse than the average in rural China and occupied Tibet.

The simple fact is that in spite of a wildly booming economy, shoveled with foreign capital; communist China makes a bad job in taking care of its poor.

The communist country on the other hand has done an excellent work in creating millionaires and ultra rich. It is not far fetched to compare to the infamous Industrial Revolution in 18th century Britain where in a very short time a mass of extremely wealthy people were created, while the workers’ standard of living actually dropped.

- China’s GDP/capita is $7700 for 2006. This places China number 86 among the 179 states monitored by IMU (International Monetary Union).

- China’s GDP/capita is twice that of India ($3800) and three times its neighbors Pakistan ($2700) and Nepal ($2000), but not surprisingly far behind countries such as USA, Britain, Japan, France and Australia ($32000 – $45000/capita).

- Comparing China ($7700) with East Asian neighbors, China somewhat surprisingly is not doing very well. Taiwan ($31000) and South Korea ($24000) are way ahead and so are countries such as Iran, Thailand and Indonesia.

- The average income for the richest 20% in Beijing was $3600 in 2005. The poorest 20% only made $890/person.

- The average annual income in 2005 in China (Beijing Municipal Bureau of Statistics) was $1100.

- According to Xinhua the increasing gap between poor and rich is widening and can lead to social unrest. The most affluent one-fifth of China’s population earn 50 percent of the total income, with the bottom one-fifth taking home only 4.7 percent, said a recent report by the official Xinhua News Agency.

Closing Everest part 2 – what China fears most.

Closing Everest – what China fears most

I Recommend …

ExplorersWeb Week in Review – http://www.mounteverest.net/

Political statements during Olympic Games have happened before. What’s unusual this time, is for the host country to actually take the first step. Closing Everest part 2   what China fears most.

This morning, China announced it is restricting world mountaineers from climbing Everest and Cho Oyu. Only Chinese climbers will be allowed, carrying the Olympic torch to the summit in a supposed celebration of sportsmanship and Olympic ideals.

The official version

The Chinese have closed Everest for the Olympic torch relay, although they repeatedly guaranteed they wouldn’t. Xinhua news agency is probably busy putting together a press release to be reprinted all over the world, claiming the measure was taken for crowding and safety reasons.

This is nonsense of course, self evident in the fact that both Everest and Cho Oyu are restricted. Cho Oyu, a peak several days away from Everest, is rarely climbed in spring and only a handful of expeditions were headed there this season.

On Everest, mountaineers obeyed to the rules put up by China last fall: they would climb in mostly national teams and apply for permit at least 2-3 months ahead to allow political screening. This has led to far fewer teams this spring season compared to other years.

 Closing Everest part 2   what China fears most.…and the real one

China’s worst nightmare for the Olympic torch event is not crowding or safety – the mountain will after all re-open after the torch. China’s worst nightmare is a picture of the flame on Everest summit, alongside a climber holding up a “Free Tibet” sign.

This explains why the officials have tried to convince Nepal to close the peak also from the south side during the Chinese Everest climb. But why would such a sign be dangerous? Why fear the two words “free Tibet” so much?

China cares little about what the Tibetans think. It doesn’t even care what we think – they already know what we think but also that we won’t do anything about it – except for giving Dalai Lama the occasional medal.

What the dictators care about is that Tibetan Buddhism is a fast growing religion in China today, especially among the affluent, now aspiring for what the rest of the world has; freedom and democracy.

 Closing Everest part 2   what China fears most.What China fears most is their own; the Chinese. The Tiananmen Square protests of 1989 are not that far away.

When politeness is not enough

Climbers have bent over to comply with China, even looking the other way when murders were committed. Obviously, the politeness has not worked – just as it didn’t work in South Africa; or in the poems exchanged between Mao and Dalai Lama.

In Tibet a quarter of the population was slaughtered and Dalai Lama was forced to flee. In SA, only boycotts and embargos finally put an end to the apartheid.

Also on Everest, last fall there were debates whether or not the peak’s north side should be boycotted during the Olympic event. Climbers decided against it; reasoning that such a measure would affect the Tibetan population even worse. Well it is no longer an issue; this morning Chinese officials took care of that.
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The skinny on Olympic politics

 Closing Everest part 2   what China fears most.Due to the heavy and international media coverage, the Olympics have often been a scene for political protests and promotions.

In 1936 the Summer Olympics in Berlin were used shamelessly by Hitler for his political agenda. In the 1968 Summer Olympics in Mexico City several African-American athletes raised their arms in a black-power gesture protesting domestic racism. In the 1972 Summer Olympics in Munich Palestinian terrorists murdered 11 Israeli athletes and coaches and the 1980 Summer Olympics in Moscow were boycotted due to the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan.

The question now is what the 2008 Chinese Summer Olympics will bring to the political arena. Denying a thousand of climbers and staff to climb the world’s highest mountain is only a teaser of the arrogance and unreliability of the current Chinese rulers.

 Closing Everest part 2   what China fears most.Editorial rules are already in place

The question is also how media will handle the event. In 1936, American groups protested violently but to little avail. The 1968 Olympics Black Power salute caused Tommie Smith and John Carlos to be suspended from the U.S. team and expelled from the Games. The two were criticized and subject to abuse, their families received death threats and fellow athletes sympathetic to their protest were reprimanded and ostracized by the media.

While the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan is small change compared to China’s genocide in Tibet, China seems too hot of a potato for most western mainstream journalists today. Editorial rules are already in place in many cases for how the event will be handled. Of course China knows this, allowing them the impudence to simply close Everest if they want to.

To write what matters

The world should take note though. History teaches us what happened after the 1936 Olympics in Berlin; and it also gave Tommie Smith and John Carlos right. We should take warning while China still is more dependant on us than we are on them.

To gain stability, the country and its people need Democracy. The change could well come from within, but not if the Chinese and Tibetan population are led to believe that the world agrees with their dictators.

Reporters need to write what matters and the world should remember that the country is not holding a few short range dirty bombs. The world’s largest population; China is held hostage by a band of volatile autocrats who have their hands on intercontinental ballistic missiles.

Signs are often early, but they are always there. What happens on Everest can happen anywhere.

Closing Everest part 1 – Chinese closing Everest for climbing in spring 2008

Chinese closing Everest for climbing in spring 2008 – thousand or more climbers and staff affected

I Recommend …

ExplorersWeb Week in Review – http://www.mounteverest.net/

cccchinska nota Closing Everest part 1   Chinese closing Everest for climbing in spring 2008 “Rumors circulating in our national and international media that Mt. Everest will be closed to climb from the Tibet side are false. China will also not limit the number of expeditions in 2008,” Ang Tshering Sherpa stated last year, following a meeting with CMA & CTMA attended by high level delegates from Beijing and Lhasa.This morning however, the President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association forwarded the pictured notice sent Monday by CTMA to Everest north side expedition leaders. The mountain will be closed, and according to another reliable source, no group visas to enter will be issued until May 10.

Considering the need for acclimatization and infrastructure, climbing Everest north side this spring will be short of impossible. This is a serious blow to Everest climbers and related personnel, many of whom got the notice only one week before their Everest approach is due to begin.

Reportedly, Chinese officials also attempted to convince Nepalese authorities to close the icefall on the south side of Everest this spring until May 10, and try not to have summits during the period. Nepal has reportedly rejected this request.

The situation shows serious contempt for the sport of mountaineering by Chinese Olympic officials. Reportedly, the worry is that “Free Tibet” groups would take the opportunity to voice their cause.

Not only Everest, but also Cho Oyu will be closed during this period. Hundreds of climbers are now scrambling to evaluate their situation.

In many cases, permit, porter, staff and infrastructure fees have already been paid. Those who can afford it, choose to reroute to Everest south side – putting a dangerous strain on this side of the peak, with close to 70 permits reportedly issued there already this season.

Protests are now being put forward by mountaineers to Chinese officials. “I don’t blame CMA/CTMA in Lhasa,” a western organizer told ExWeb over phone from KTM this morning, “Beijing is taking over.”

Yosemite National Park. /Version english and polish/

Yosemite National Park (pronounced “yo-SEM-it-ee”, IPA: /joʊˈsɛmɨtiː/) is a national park located largely in Mariposa and Tuolumne Counties, California, United States. The park covers an area of 761,266 acres or 1,189 square miles (3,081 km²) and reaches across the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountain chain.[1] Yosemite is visited by over 3.5 million people each year, many of whom only spend time in the seven square miles (18 km²) of Yosemite Valley.[2] Designated a World Heritage Site in 1984, Yosemite is internationally recognized for its spectacular granite cliffs, waterfalls, clear streams, Giant Sequoia groves, and biological diversity.[2] About 89% of the park is designated wilderness. Although not the first designated national park, Yosemite was a focal point in the development of the national park idea, largely owing to the work of people like John Muir.[3]

Yosemite is one of the largest and least fragmented habitat blocks in the Sierra Nevada, and the park supports a diversity of plants and animals. The park has an elevation range from 2,000 to 13,114 feet (600 to 4,000 m) and contains five major vegetation zones: chaparral/oak woodland, lower montane, upper montane, subalpine, and alpine. Of California’s 7,000 plant species, about 50% occur in the Sierra Nevada and more than 20% within Yosemite. There is suitable habitat or documentation for more than 160 rare plants in the park, with rare local geologic formations and unique soils characterizing the restricted ranges many of these plants occupy.[2]

The geology of the Yosemite area is characterized by granitic rocks and remnants of older rock. About 10 million years ago, the Sierra Nevada was uplifted and then tilted to form its relatively gentle western slopes and the more dramatic eastern slopes. The uplift increased the steepness of stream and river beds, resulting in formation of deep, narrow canyons. About 1 million years ago, snow and ice accumulated, forming glaciers at the higher alpine meadows that moved down the river valleys. Ice thickness in Yosemite Valley may have reached 4,000 feet (1200 m) during the early glacial episode. The downslope movement of the ice masses cut and sculpted the U-shaped valley that attracts so many visitors to its scenic vistas today.[2]

 Yosemite National Park. /Version english and polish/

Park Narodowy Yosemite (ang. Yosemite National Park) – park narodowy położony w USA, w środkowej Kalifornii, na zachodnich zboczach gór Sierra Nevada. W ramach parku leży Yosemite Valley (Dolina Yosemite).

Podstawowe wiadomości

  • powierzchnia – 3081 km2
  • najwyższy szczyt Mount Lyell (3997 m n.p.m.)
  • główne jeziora – Eleanor, Tenaya, Mirror, Merced
  • główna rzeka – Merced
  • liczba turystów zwiedzających park – ponad 3 mln rocznie
  • lokalizacja – 3,5 godziny jazdy samochodem od San Francisco

Historia

Dolina Yosemite była od wieków domem Indian Miwok i Pajutów, którzy żyli tam w spokoju do chwili wybuchu gorączki złota w Kalifornii. Nazwa Yosemite pochodzi najprawdopodobniej od indiańskiego słowa Yohhe’meti lub Yos.s.e’meti, które było nazwą plemienia Indian zamieszkujących dolinę Yosemite. Yosemite dosłownie oznacza “ci, którzy zabijali” (Yos: “zabijać,” litera e: “którzy” oraz -meti: przyrostek wskazujący liczbę mnogą).

Uważa się, że pierwszymi białymi, którzy ujrzeli dolinę Yosemite z góry, nie wkraczając do niej, byli traperzy pod wodzą Josepha Reddeforda Walkera. Było to w 1833 roku. Prawdopodobnie patrzyli oni ze szczytu wodospadów Yosemite. Rok 1851 uważany jest za rok, w którym w Dolinie Yosemite po raz pierwszy postawił nogę biały człowiek. Wkrótce też miejsce to stało się sławne, ściągając malarzy i miłośników przyrody. W 1864, na skutek nacisków ze strony ówczesnych obrońców przyrody, prezydent Abraham Lincoln podpisał ustawę zapewniającą stanową ochronę dolinie Yosemite i lasom gigantycznych sekwoi, położonym na południe od niej. Nieco później, bo w 1890 roku, zaangażowanie amerykańskiego przyrodnika Johna Muira doprowadziło ostatecznie do ogłoszenia Yosemite drugim z kolei parkiem narodowym w Stanach Zjednoczonych (po Yellowstone). Z parkiem tym wiąże się osoba Galena Clarka, który uchodzi za jednego z odkrywców gigantycznego lasu położonego u gór Sierra Nevada.

Geologia

Dolina Yosemite jest najbardziej klasycznym przykładem U-kształtnej doliny polodowcowej, a jej współczesny wygląd wynikiem ruchów górotwórczych, erozji wodnej i miażdżącej siły lodowców.

  • powstanie gór Sierra Nevada
  • erozja wodna prowadzi do powstania płytkich koryt rzecznych
  • spływające lodowce pogłębiają koryta (1 mln – 30 tys. lat temu)

Naturalne kaniony gór Sierra zostały w epoce lodowcowej pogłębione i poszerzone przez lodowce. Potężne masy lodu z łatwością kruszyły granitowe, osłabione pęknięciami skały, pozostawiając nietknięte ściany o mocniejszej budowie. Lodowiec posuwający się potokiem Merced pozostawił nietknięte ściany, z których spadają w dół wody wodospadu Nevada oraz Vernal. Kanion potoku Yosemite jest typową “doliną wiszącą”. Lodowiec, który go wyrzeźbił, był o wiele mniejszy od lodowca Merced, który wyciął leżącą 600 m niżej dolinę. Potok Yosemite płynie zatem doliną wiszącą, skąd spada w dolinę Yosemite przepięknym, trójkaskadowym wodospadem o takiej samej nazwie jak dolina (zdjęcie), o wysokości 740 m, co stawia go na 6. miejscu na świecie. W wyniku działania lodu, który pozostawił w nienaruszonym kształcie ich najtwardsze partie, powstały: Cathedral Rocks, El Capitan (1095 m) i Half Dome. Uformowanie wiszących dolin przyczyniło się do powstania wielu wodospadów.

 Yosemite National Park. /Version english and polish/

Flora Yosemite

Na południu parku znajduje się Mariposa Grove słynący z mamutowców olbrzymich, zwanych potocznie sekwojami. Najsłynniejszy okaz sekwoi w Yosemite to “Grizzly Giant“, liczący 2700 lat. Jest on wysoki na 65 metrów, a jego średnica u podstawy liczy 9 metrów. W parku występuje osiem gatunków sosny, w tym

a także inne drzewa, z których warto wymienić:

Fauna Yosemite

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